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Mitt Matt makes great turkey!” My three-year-old nephew Jonny, who came up with this nickname himself, really dug my Thanksgiving dinner last year. And I can’t say I blame him. My spread pretty much rocked. Based on solid recipes and a lot of improvising (especially an aggressive basting regimen that made me feel as if I were on E.R.), I wound up with a boffo 18-lb. bird, two types of potatoes, assorted pies and dressings, and some great wines.This year, with the debate warming up over genetically engineered food, I thought I’d at least explore making my family a turkey dinner genetically pure enough for Ralph Nader.Personally, I just don’t know enough to be worried about biotech, although I figure that if anything is going to do in my visiting in-laws this Thanksgiving, it’s going to be Salmonella from an undercooked bird or their taxi ride out to LaGuardia.But I wanted to check out the alternatives. My first stop was the Union of Concerned Scientists, where I met two, well, concerned scientists. Margaret Mellon and Jane Rissler have spent years studying food safety, and they’ve got a lot of doubts about biotech. I asked them what I could do to avoid gene-altered foods this year. They said it would take some work. No one knows exactly which of the thousands of products for sale use gene-altered crops like corn or soy. It could be more than half. They said I’d do best staying away from processed foods and sticking with stuff labeled organic, although even then, since the government doesn’t regulate the labeling of organic foods, you have to put your faith in the private firms that certify food as organic.My next stop was a big supermarket in Maryland, just outside Washington. Giant Food is a chain here, kind of like PathMark in the Northeast or Winn-Dixie in the South. It had organic carrots for my gravy and organic half-and-half for my red smashed potatoes. But I couldn’t find many of the other organic products I needed to be genetically pure.And the turkeys! At 79[cents] per lb., the fresh ones were a terrific bargain. (The not-quite-as-good frozen ones were even cheaper, 39[cents] per lb.) But had the birds fed on engineered grains? I called Giant’s p.r. guy to ask. “We wouldn’t know,” he told me.I figured I’d have better luck at the nearby organic grocery store. Fresh Fields is part of Whole Foods, which also runs Bread & Circus. It had most of what I needed, including an oh-so-pure turkey that had dined exclusively on genetically correct feed. But at $1.79 per lb., it wasn’t cheap. And then I had to get organic chicken broth–“Nurse Hathaway, baster! Stat!”–not to mention all the organic veggies. Bottomline: it would cost an extra $30 to make Ralph Nader happy.In the end I decided to cut a few corners. I settled on the organic bird but skipped the rest. I took comfort knowing that even concerned scientists don’t always eat perfectly. “I love Brussels sprouts,” Rissler told me. “I just can’t find the organic ones.” Hey, I forgive her. And I assume, despite the suspect butter, my nephew will forgive his Mitt Matt too.
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